01.07.2024 The Italian Chapel and Churchill Barriers

 Well, despite the now regular drizzly weather with a bit of a chill nip in the air today, Master, Missus, Morgan and I set out to visit the 'Italian Chapel' at Lamb Holm. We also drove over the causeways that have been created from the 'Churchill Barriers'. There is an interesting history to these two Places. The first barriers were created by sinking Block Ships in 1914, to  help defend the narrow passages of the Eastern side of Skapa Flow between the five islands of Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. The Navy's grand fleet was sent to Skapa Flow as it was one of the largest sheltered harbours in the world. This meant the navy was in an ideal place to take on the German Navy, who were in the Baltic Sea. Although in 1939 more block ships were sunk and submarine nets deployed, alas it didn't stop the German U-Boat U-47 entering the Skapa Flow on 14th October 1939 and torpedoing the HMS Royal Oak at anchor there. It was high tide that had enabled the submarine to enter. 834 of the crew of the Royal Oak were killed. Winston Churchill visited Orkney, and it was decided that 4 permanent barriers should be built. Work began in 1940. A large labour force would be needed, and it was predominantly made up of 1300 Italian prisoners of war. 700 on Burray and 600 on Lamb Holm. Due to the Geneva Convention it was prohibited to use POWs for the war effort so the works were justified as 'improvements to communications to the southern Orkney Islands'. Started in 1940, the work was completed by September 1944 and opened by the first Lord of the Admiralty on 12th May 1945 four days after the end of WW2 in Europe. These barriers are an amazing feat of Engineering. 250,000 tons of broken rock was dropped from overhead cableways into water up to 59 feet deep. 5 tonne concrete blocks were laid on this core and 10 tonne concrete blocks were arranged randomly along the sides as breakers. All the blocks were cast on Orkney and bought to the causeways by rail. The design and construction of the Churchill Barriers was undertaken by Balfour Beatty Co. Ltd.

A Churchill Barrier showing the blocks along the sides. Also in this photo is part of one of the sunken Block-ships. These are what you see today. Missus said the Red signs at the ends of the causeways  warn you not to stop on them and you use them at your own risk, after all they are just a pile of stones and concrete blocks!
While the Italian POWs were working on the barriers they asked for a place to worship, so they were allowed 2 Nissen Huts on Lamb Holm. From these they created a beautiful Chapel to worship in. The Italian POWs made their camp (no.60) at Lamb Holm from a dull place to a cheerful place by gardening and creating a camp square to which an Artist Domenico Chiocchetti made a figure of St. George from Barbed wire and cement. This can still be seen today on its plinth. Domenicio Chiocchetti gathered together a group of POWs with various skills and together they created a 'thing of beauty' the guide book states. It most certainly is. By 1958 though the chapel had deteriorated and a preservation committee was formed. Through Press and a BBC programme broadcast in Italy, interest was piqued to getting the chapel restored and in 1960 Signor Chiocchetti returned and helped with the restoration. The guide book has the full story in so we bought one. It is a fascinating story.

                               The Statue of St. George that adorned the Square of the camp.


                                                  The Italian Chapel from the outside

Inside the Chapel

                                                                                                     Detail at the Altar

   In the garden of the Chapel was a group of Purple Orchids.

Not many people noticed these. Morgan and I Introduced ourselves to the ladies in reception at the chapel and they kindly stamped our passports to say that we had visited.

So bellies rumbling and a recommendation that the café at Celina Rupp's was worth a visit we drove back along the causeway and turned left then almost immediately turned right. Celina Rupp is a Jeweller and has added a very good café to her complex. Master and Missus ordered coffee and cake but then spotted the main menu, so Master ordered a Black Pudding Roll and Missus the soup of the day which was Roast Vegetable. The cakes they had ordered were a Orkney Fudge Cheesecake and a Summer Fruit Swiss Roll. The food was very good and the most interesting thing was it was nearly all local people dining in there. They don't take coach loads there. On the way out Missus wanted to have a look at the shop and jewellery and other crafts that were there. She spotted a little odd looking piece of pottery it is a 'Neolithic House Goddess', they are inspired by 'The Westray Wifey'. They are supposed to bring good fortune to houses. Missus says she doesn't know the story of the Westray Wifey, that's another thing to look into.
Master and Missus decided that we should drive down to the end of the islands South Ronaldsay. this meant we went over all four of the Churchill Barriers in both directions. We also saw a sing for one of the Neolithic Tombs in the area. 'Tomb of the Eagles', sadly this is now permanently closed. so we came home. Master said the car needed fuel so we filled it up when we got back to Stromness. Also the weather has improved and Missus says it shouldn't be as wet tomorrow. I think we are going to the Ness of Brodgar, well I hope.
An added extra, we spotted the Hurtigruten Ship the MS Maud in the harbour this morning, sure enough there were red jackets with yellow hoods in town going on various excursions, one was to the Italian Chapel etc. Master had ask one of the passengers earlier where they were going on the cruise. Orkney, Shetland, Faroe and I think they said Iceland.
The Chapel had many coaches calling this morning, it literally was one in one out the whole time, we were lucky to catch a break between coaches and have the Chapel to ourselves, very peaceful.



        


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